Winter Wines

I love the warm weather. Give me sun, oceans and beaches any day and I am a happy girl.

But right now I am excited for the winter season. To tell you the truth, I've wanted it to be cold enough to start opening some of the earthy, full bodied red wines I have received for Christmas and pair them with some wild mushroom risotto (which I have been craving desperately). I called some friends and decided that last night was finally the night. There is something about full bodied reds that warm the soul on even the coldest winter nights. Fuller bodied wines do have a higher alcohol, so maybe that’s the warm, fuzzy feeling I'm going for...

We started off with a 2004 Deforville Nebbiolo from Northwest Italy in Piedmont. The wine had notes of candied cherry, powdery soil-chalk and potpourri, and was delicate with softer tannins, similar to Pinot Noir. In other words, the wine was delicious and helped to tie us over while I continually stirred the simmering risotto, slowly releasing its sweet fragrance.

We then moved on to a 1999 Monsanto, Il Poggio, Chianti Classico Riserva from Tuscany. This particular bottle was drinking phenomenally well; the flavors were smoky, earthy, and full of truffles, stewed tomatoes and wild mushrooms. Needless to say, it was the perfect wine to bring out the chanterelle and portobello flavors in our main course.

A few bottles of earthy reds, a bowl of delicious wild mushroom risotto, some excellent cheese from Murray's Cheese Shop (thanks Alexis), and our winter blues were gone. This is when I decided to tell them about my trip to Miami this coming weekend. After all, I like white wine too...

One Wine to Drink

While reflecting last week on my wine experiences from 2006, I got to thinking what makes a wine memorable and what type of wine would I drink if I had to have the same wine for the rest of my life?

I emailed some friends and colleagues and asked them the age old question (I'm sure you've heard this question in one form or another):

If you were stranded on a desert island and could only choose one type of wine to drink for the rest of your life what would it be and why?

I invited them to use their imagination and try to consider such factors as the island's food supply.  Here are some of my favorite responses.

James, witty sommelier: "The old Desert Island question...I want to lean towards St. Joseph or any wine from the Northern Rhone and Duck confit and maybe some foie gras butter with fresh baked brioche, just because if we’re never getting off this island, might as well live in sin. The other half has to go with the obvious - German Riesling. Probably Spatlese from the Mosel or anything from Helmut Hexhamer or Helmut Dönnhoff. What is with guys named Helmut from the Nahe region? As far as the food for the Riesling - tomato and jalapeno seeds. I’ll plant them, fish all day and have ceviche for the rest of my days...how does Riesling taste out of a coconut anyway?"

Greg, my favorite Walla Walla Winemaker: "Gramercy Cellars Walla Walla Syrah 2005 - because if I was stuck on an island, there wouldn’t be anyone to sell it!"

Peter, all around "good guy" and exceptional wine professional: "Tough... a few thoughts - 1996 Bollinger Grand Anee Rose Champagne. It could be the non-Rose too but has to be '96 although the '95 is singing these days as well. For me, it is the greatest champagne of my generation. Others in my office have said '82 Salon but I am a huge fan of the Bollinger style and the '96 vintage in particular. It's just the right balance for my palate of fruit, acid and yeast. It can be drunk young but has the stuffing to last forever just in case rescue is far off."

Melissa, entertaining wine educator: "Such a tough question...it's so hard to pick just one, but I think If I were given the choice I would drink Champagne. I have never quite figured out or have been able to express in words why I love Champagne so much. I feel more strongly about it than almost any other wine and drink it as often or more than any other. My attachment frighteningly borders on an emotional level as well. When it's good...really good...I get a little vachlemt (insert Saturday Night Live's Linda Richman voice here).  Plus with the salty food and air - what could be better?"

Rory, another witty Chicago Sommelier: "German Riesling (Kabinet-Spatelse), because it is lower alcohol and refreshing and my Island is very hot I and I am very thirsty."

Cindy, vice president of operations for a very cool culinary school: "Hands down it would be Krug MV.  Taking into account that I would be drinking a lot of it and it would be hot.  An unlimited supply of lobster and caviar would be necessary.  What about you?"

Well, that is a good question Cindy. I have so many favorites. Maybe it would be Trimbach "Clos St Hune" Riesling from Alsace because it is unique and is a monopoly (privately owned vineyard) and Riesling’s is so versatile with food. Although it could also be Raveneau Chablis "Les Clos" from Burgundy because the Chardonnay is rich and the wine bottle is heavy enough where it could be used as a weapon to fight off...wild animals.

Nah, my final answer would definitely be Groffier Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru 'Amoureuses' from Burgundy. It is silky, has ripe fruit, and yet is earthy with wild mushrooms and truffles. The premier cru name translates as "the lovers" and is so good.

Me. A desert island.  And Cru 'Amoureuses.' Now if I could only bring that one perfect person to share it with...

Thanksgiving

With Thanksgiving just around the corner, I am sure most of you are busy preparing for the big feast (and the influx of relatives!).  Your grocery list is almost complete.  You've got the turkey, the stuffing, the cranberry sauce, the sweet potatoes.  But what about the wine?

Allow me to make some recommendations - along with some talking points for each (surely this will impress even Aunt Edna). Remember, turkey is a relatively easy food to pair with wine, but the accompaniments and side dishes (which definitely share the spotlight with the turkey) complicate the flavor matching.

My general recommendation is to find white wines that are off-dry and aromatic. I also recommend lighter, fruity, spicy reds. Another idea is to try something festive like Beaujolais Nouveau. It is the liquid equivalent of candied yams with marshmallows on top. Yum!

Here are some specific wines that are available in most fine wine stores.  Happy Thanksgiving!

1. Rose Champagne from France because it has the acidity to cut through sweet side dishes and is very festive for celebrating.

Examples:
Egly Ouriet, Rose, Brut NV or Laurent Perrier Brut Rose NV orVeuve Clicqout Brut Rose NV.

2. Riesling from Germany or the United States because the sweetness will compliment the relatively mild bird, and still has great acidity to cut through side dishes.

Examples:
Donnhoff Riesling Spatlese, Nahe 2004 or Gunderloch Riesling Spatlese, Rheinhessen 2004 or Eroica Riesling, Columbia Valley 2005

3. Tocai Fruilano or Arneis from Italy because of their crisp acidity and ripe fruit.

Examples:
Giacosa Arneis, Piedmont 2004 or Livio Felluga Tocai, Friuli 2004

4. Gewurztraminer or other whites from Alsace because their spiciness (coupled with their touch of sweetness) complement the side dishes and is rich enough to add flavor to the turkey.

Examples:
Lorentz Gewurztraminer, Alsace 2004 or Weinbach Riesling, Alsace 2003

If a red wine is preferred:

5. Pinot Noir from Burgundy, California or Oregon because the fruit is flavorful enough to enhance the turkey but light enough so it won't overpower.

Examples:
Bethel Heights Pinot Noir, Willamette 2004, Groffier Chambolle Musigny, Burgundy 2004 or Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara 2004

6. Gamay (Beaujolais) - Beaujolais Nouveau, which is released to be a marker of the harvest, also coincides with Thanksgiving.

Example:
Domaine Madone Beaujolais Nouveau, Le Perreon 2006

7. Zinfandel because it is very patriotic and goes well with Turkey with spicy side dishes or dressing.

Examples:
Ridge Zinfandel, Santa Cruz 2003 or Dashe Zinfandel, Dry Creek 2004

Trip to Greece

"Greece is the Word"

Oh Greece. How could I not love you with your black sand beaches, whitewashed houses, mountainside monasteries, olive groves, and picturesque vineyards? Ever since my trip this month to Greece (hence the little hiatus in my blog entries), I have been dying to tell my readers how incredible the wines from Greece are.

We start our trip (myself and 4 other sommeliers) with a flight into Athens. After a leisurely lunch of whole roasted fish, tomato and feta salad, and grilled octopus we fly off to the island of Santorini.

Our first vineyard tour with Domaine Sigales winery is on the plain of Oia. We learn that the whole island was once covered with lush vineyards, but due to volcanic eruptions most of the vineyards disappeared and were never replanted. The vines on the winery we visit are shaped into baskets which are called "ampelies" to prevent the grapes from being bruised by the winds. Paris Sigales, winemaker and owner, gives us a tour of the land via pick-up truck and we gaze in awe at the gorgeous sunset on the blue Aegean Sea creating a romatic backdrop to the local grapes of Assyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani and Mavrotragano (which later becomes my nickname, long story). I just can't get enough of the 2003 barrel-fermented white blend of Assyrtiko and Athiri and even managed to smuggle a bottle with me in my already-overflowing suitcase. Shh!

Our journey then took us back to Athens where Ted Diamantis, our host and Greek wine expert, rents a car and drives us North to the mountains. En route to our next vineyard, we make the obligatory food stop and enjoy spit-roasted meats and our always satisfying Greek salad. Did I mention I love Greek food?

In the remote town of Amydeon we have the pleasure to meet Bordeaux-trained winemaker, Angelo Iatrdis, at the Alpha Estate. His passion for making wine from international and local grape varietals shows in the quality of the wine. The sauvignon blanc tastes like a cross between the best New Zealand and Loire Valley wines from the same grape. The popular red blend of Syrah, Merlot and Xinomavro is a crowd favorite amongst our group, proving how Angelo's work in the vineyards and innovative winemaking philosophy really makes a difference.

Our last visit to the ancient town of Nafplion in the Peloponnese region of the southern island is to visit Domaine Skouras. The owner, George Skouras, has been enthusiastically helping to promote Greece and her wines for the past 15 years and is one of the most charming winemakers I have ever met. His vineyards of the local grape Agiorghitiko (a.k.a St. George for those of you who really aren't interested in the local pronunciation) are perched on top of a beautiful hill in one of the most important Greek regions, Nemea. George's luxury-cuvee "Megas Oenos" is a blend of Cabernet and St. George and tasting the different wine vintages (dating back to the 1990's) will prove to even the most undiscerning palate that his wines develop and evolve with age. The Shouras Moschofilero pairs wonderfully with the local fresh seafood and after 5 bottles, it's hard not to chant "Mosco, Mosco" after every meal!

Olivia Newton-John, eat your heart out. Better yet, drink your heart out.
Greece - you're the one that I want.