One Wine to Drink

While reflecting last week on my wine experiences from 2006, I got to thinking what makes a wine memorable and what type of wine would I drink if I had to have the same wine for the rest of my life?

I emailed some friends and colleagues and asked them the age old question (I'm sure you've heard this question in one form or another):

If you were stranded on a desert island and could only choose one type of wine to drink for the rest of your life what would it be and why?

I invited them to use their imagination and try to consider such factors as the island's food supply.  Here are some of my favorite responses.

James, witty sommelier: "The old Desert Island question...I want to lean towards St. Joseph or any wine from the Northern Rhone and Duck confit and maybe some foie gras butter with fresh baked brioche, just because if we’re never getting off this island, might as well live in sin. The other half has to go with the obvious - German Riesling. Probably Spatlese from the Mosel or anything from Helmut Hexhamer or Helmut Dönnhoff. What is with guys named Helmut from the Nahe region? As far as the food for the Riesling - tomato and jalapeno seeds. I’ll plant them, fish all day and have ceviche for the rest of my days...how does Riesling taste out of a coconut anyway?"

Greg, my favorite Walla Walla Winemaker: "Gramercy Cellars Walla Walla Syrah 2005 - because if I was stuck on an island, there wouldn’t be anyone to sell it!"

Peter, all around "good guy" and exceptional wine professional: "Tough... a few thoughts - 1996 Bollinger Grand Anee Rose Champagne. It could be the non-Rose too but has to be '96 although the '95 is singing these days as well. For me, it is the greatest champagne of my generation. Others in my office have said '82 Salon but I am a huge fan of the Bollinger style and the '96 vintage in particular. It's just the right balance for my palate of fruit, acid and yeast. It can be drunk young but has the stuffing to last forever just in case rescue is far off."

Melissa, entertaining wine educator: "Such a tough question...it's so hard to pick just one, but I think If I were given the choice I would drink Champagne. I have never quite figured out or have been able to express in words why I love Champagne so much. I feel more strongly about it than almost any other wine and drink it as often or more than any other. My attachment frighteningly borders on an emotional level as well. When it's good...really good...I get a little vachlemt (insert Saturday Night Live's Linda Richman voice here).  Plus with the salty food and air - what could be better?"

Rory, another witty Chicago Sommelier: "German Riesling (Kabinet-Spatelse), because it is lower alcohol and refreshing and my Island is very hot I and I am very thirsty."

Cindy, vice president of operations for a very cool culinary school: "Hands down it would be Krug MV.  Taking into account that I would be drinking a lot of it and it would be hot.  An unlimited supply of lobster and caviar would be necessary.  What about you?"

Well, that is a good question Cindy. I have so many favorites. Maybe it would be Trimbach "Clos St Hune" Riesling from Alsace because it is unique and is a monopoly (privately owned vineyard) and Riesling’s is so versatile with food. Although it could also be Raveneau Chablis "Les Clos" from Burgundy because the Chardonnay is rich and the wine bottle is heavy enough where it could be used as a weapon to fight off...wild animals.

Nah, my final answer would definitely be Groffier Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru 'Amoureuses' from Burgundy. It is silky, has ripe fruit, and yet is earthy with wild mushrooms and truffles. The premier cru name translates as "the lovers" and is so good.

Me. A desert island.  And Cru 'Amoureuses.' Now if I could only bring that one perfect person to share it with...

Thanksgiving

With Thanksgiving just around the corner, I am sure most of you are busy preparing for the big feast (and the influx of relatives!).  Your grocery list is almost complete.  You've got the turkey, the stuffing, the cranberry sauce, the sweet potatoes.  But what about the wine?

Allow me to make some recommendations - along with some talking points for each (surely this will impress even Aunt Edna). Remember, turkey is a relatively easy food to pair with wine, but the accompaniments and side dishes (which definitely share the spotlight with the turkey) complicate the flavor matching.

My general recommendation is to find white wines that are off-dry and aromatic. I also recommend lighter, fruity, spicy reds. Another idea is to try something festive like Beaujolais Nouveau. It is the liquid equivalent of candied yams with marshmallows on top. Yum!

Here are some specific wines that are available in most fine wine stores.  Happy Thanksgiving!

1. Rose Champagne from France because it has the acidity to cut through sweet side dishes and is very festive for celebrating.

Examples:
Egly Ouriet, Rose, Brut NV or Laurent Perrier Brut Rose NV orVeuve Clicqout Brut Rose NV.

2. Riesling from Germany or the United States because the sweetness will compliment the relatively mild bird, and still has great acidity to cut through side dishes.

Examples:
Donnhoff Riesling Spatlese, Nahe 2004 or Gunderloch Riesling Spatlese, Rheinhessen 2004 or Eroica Riesling, Columbia Valley 2005

3. Tocai Fruilano or Arneis from Italy because of their crisp acidity and ripe fruit.

Examples:
Giacosa Arneis, Piedmont 2004 or Livio Felluga Tocai, Friuli 2004

4. Gewurztraminer or other whites from Alsace because their spiciness (coupled with their touch of sweetness) complement the side dishes and is rich enough to add flavor to the turkey.

Examples:
Lorentz Gewurztraminer, Alsace 2004 or Weinbach Riesling, Alsace 2003

If a red wine is preferred:

5. Pinot Noir from Burgundy, California or Oregon because the fruit is flavorful enough to enhance the turkey but light enough so it won't overpower.

Examples:
Bethel Heights Pinot Noir, Willamette 2004, Groffier Chambolle Musigny, Burgundy 2004 or Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara 2004

6. Gamay (Beaujolais) - Beaujolais Nouveau, which is released to be a marker of the harvest, also coincides with Thanksgiving.

Example:
Domaine Madone Beaujolais Nouveau, Le Perreon 2006

7. Zinfandel because it is very patriotic and goes well with Turkey with spicy side dishes or dressing.

Examples:
Ridge Zinfandel, Santa Cruz 2003 or Dashe Zinfandel, Dry Creek 2004

What's in a name?

What's in a name? That which we call a Rosé....

A few weekends ago five friends and I traveled to Southern Italy on the cheap to celebrate the warm weather and the beginning of Spring. Okay, so we only got as far as Central Park. But armed with some light/salty foods - Prosciutto, Parmigiano Reggiano and Gaeta black olives amongst some other tasty treats from Dean and Deluca - we basked in the afternoon sunshine while drinking Argiolas Lagrein Rosé from Sardegnia.

What is a rosé wine anyway? Let's start with some basic wine facts.

The juice from all grapes is clear, a.k.a. white. The reason red wine is red is because the juice of red skinned grapes are allowed to sit with their skins in order to extract color. Contrastingly the juice of white grapes is not exposed to the skins and therefore doesn't have color. A rosé wine falls somewhere in between. It is a wine made from red grapes where the juice comes in contact with the skins - but only briefly. Ever turn a load of whites pink by accidentally throwing in a red blouse? Same principle!

A popular misconception is that white zinfandel is a type of rosé due to the zinfandel's color. The Argiolas rosé was bone dry while White Zinfandel is a sweet wine, which is a result of "stuck fermentation" - a process where some of the sugars don't get converted to alcohol. And if you prefer the latter, a nice alternative is a Riesling from Germany (more on that next week).

The best part about the spring/rosé season is it provides the perfect wine where the weather says white but your mind is saying red.

If you're still skeptical, check it out for yourself at Vento. I just added a rosé, Cantalupo "Il Mimo," by the glass there and promise you won't be disappointed.